100% Primitivo; Idiot’s Grace Vineyard in Mosier, Oregon; planted 2003; Columbia Gorge AVA; 112 cases produced; grown in soils from volcanic ash and loess over old flood deposits; brought up in veteran barrels; 15.2% ABV.
Primitivo either is or isn’t exactly the same thing as Zinfandel, depending on who you talk to. It is a standout source of wine pleasure, without the expectations other, more obviously borrowed grapes bring to your table. When I first began drinking wine in earnest (a funny expression but exactly right here), I lived over where Pennsylvania rubs against Delaware, where it was often easier to find a good selection of European wines than domestic ones, though both felt exotic at the time. We were all serious about wine, food, and gathering around a table, and while we ardently scrutinized the imports, we were equally avid about distinctive California Zin, especially at mealtime. My lingering affection for the grape drove the decision to plant Primitivo here. Some years—like this one—are more Californian than others, though the others are absolutely interesting in their divergence. The 2021 is perfumed, berried (black-, not rasp-), properly spicy, with a cool licorice root trait.
For all that, I don’t believe the variety really wants to be here. The vines took this winter badly—not the first time—and this time they won’t be replanted.
