The wine is highly perfumed (white fruits, white flowers, streaked with green), nearly weightless, vital and fresh as a glass of cider. It was (often is) a difficult wine to land. Growing fruit according to organic standards in low-fertility dune sand turns out to have certain implications for the way fermentation proceeds; there are different outcomes as our microbes jostle for position, and sometimes the process is not fully comfortable for the "cellar man.” But in any case different grapes have different signatures, aromas aside; varieties tread differently on your tongue (we’re not growing snowcones here) and it’s part of the pleasure to figure what it is you’re suddenly sensing that didn’t happen with that other thing you just tasted. It’s nice to have this bottling back in the line-up.
Brian McCormick
