A few of us recently twisted caps (and wrenched corks!) to reconnect with the entire array of not-yet-for-sale Idiot’s Grace wines from the 2023 vintage. I was most eager to swirl this one beneath my nose. Tasting the range revealed the ’23s to be distinctive and emphatic, though most of the wines are presently dense as if vacuum-packed for a future moment. The Sangiovese is no exception, concentrated and handsome, and my hopes are high. I’ll say again that this grape is disproportionately present among the very most memorable wine moments of my life; I’m not yet sure how the variety is suited to the Gorge, if it will show greatness. I only get one lifetime to learn—whether mine or these particular vines’—but these small plantings are coming of age we’ll watch together to see what they express.
Brian McCormick
